Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
